There’s Always A Better Dough
It has less to do with the flour, water, yeast and more to do with heat— the last thing you do can lose it, the baking and the breaking are so close, but the cracks are growth, not faults, and steam is essential.
The work is slow but patience gifts endless hours for working the grains with soft slow strokes, coaxing dusty to density. Before I knew bread as intimately as I do now, I thought it was the chemistry of the dough that would sow a surer product.
Yet each loaf I formed fell flaccid between my fingers; flour clouded my eyes; the spent mixture, sticking to my skin, would tease my flesh like a rock skimming a dull surface.
I have learned things, though, such a volume of moist mass will weigh on one, no butter or oil could slide through life the way I have done, cleaning messes like the scraping of a tongue.
What should I do if at the end the loaf is not the fruit I labored for? Sometimes, the heat of the knife when I finally cut into the warm thickness– the oven’s kiss still melting on my lips– is my only release.
She Gives Good Service
after Erin Belieu
I’ve known the satisfaction of a thousand perfectly cleared tables–
I shed my degrees and honors for the glory of a dozen years in city restaurants where swollen knees and denouncing alcohol were, typically, the only signs of progress.
An Eden of tastes where excitement abounded: the splendor of a ten-hour shift when no one – even the kitchen – yelled at you; getting palmed a hundred that you needed to make rent; sipping champagne slipped from a rude table’s bottle.
I shall not forget the hard work, the after hours in dive bars or dimly-lit bathroom stalls that reaffirmed our zest and kept us from real rest, spending every dime, hours of poor tips, on late-night diner burgers or a split fare to Noodletown.
I woke up each year a little less, the maximum lifespan below the minimum wage. Finally, in crisis, I was essential—for a moment— making less than ever but important.
Now, empty tables scattered on the sidewalks block traffic, recalling space we used to fill.
Anna S. Gill is a writer from rural Virginia. She is interested in exploring topics of food politics, family, and sexuality in her work. She now lives in Portland, Oregon with her partner and two demanding cats.
tasting dough--made me crave that.